| Actually, that's not fair - all the people I met were lovely, it's just that some of the inhabitants are somewhat, well, grizzled.
The trip Tina and I took took 5 weeks and covered around 10,000 km (8,000 or so actually within Alaska). We left in late September, just when all the tourist attractions and amenities were closing (bad), but also as the last of the RV drivers had left (good).
We got around using our very sexy Ford Aerostar. It's a 1995, four wheel drive, 4 litre minivan that comfortably fitted not only a double bed, but space for a small fridge in the back. Okay, the double bed was a blow-up mattress that sat on a wooden frame I purpose built, and the fridge was pretty pointless when ice would form on the inside of the windows some nights, but it was perfect. And burgundy. And ours.
Add to that the two mountain bikes hitched to the back and we were ready to go. See more about van on the Canada page.
The Trip itself started in Canada, passing through Northern Alberta, British Columbia, and the Yukon before entering Alaska by the 'Top of the World Highway' which certainly lived up to it's name.
Our route took us into the interior first, up via Fairbanks. The scenery was certainly pretty, but not really that great. Yes, there are mountains - but not that big. Yes, there are trees - but after you've seen your first 295,348,873 bedraggled pine trees, you've seen them all. Yes there are bears, moose, caribou, beavers, and other beasties - but the only ones you see are either in a pulpy mess at the side of the road, or strapped to the back of a hunters 4X4.
Add to that, the Northern Lights persistently failed to make a showing (either because of dodgy weather hiding them, or due to the sun taking a holiday during the clear weather).
This is not to say that the interior was crap - for it certainly isn't. Just less than one expects from the advertisements.
This is all starting to sound a bit negative so let me just break the tension a bit by saying this - not all of Alaska was a disappointment: the coastline in the south is staggeringly gorgeous. We'll get to that in a moment - hold your horses.
Anyhow, the interior may not have the most enthralling scenery, but the settlements are certainly interesting. If you remember from 'Northern Exposure', everyone lived in rustic-yet-lovely log houses and the little towns had a charming atmosphere.
Not so in the places we saw. Every building is made from corrugated iron. Many houses we saw looked like they'd been added to repeatedly by bolting on a few sheets of the stuff. How the hell these structures manage to survive the -60°C winters is beyond me.
Rural Alaskans must be doing okay though; for many times we'd see one of these homes with 5 cars in the yard. Well… if you put all the hunks of machinery that lay strewn around back together again you'd probably end up with 5, even if they started off having once been part of 10 different vehicles.
Later on in our trip we were told why it is that the Interior residents don't care so much for their properties: They don't expect to stay.
Interior folk are usually in the gold mining and oil drilling businesses. They're there, so say the coastal people, to make a quick buck, strike it rich, and then bugger off somewhere warm to retire.
The settlements along the coast are gorgeous though. The people living there are normally in the fishing business and have been for generations. They want to be there and put great pride into their homes and towns.
So, for the interior dwellers, if you think that tomorrow you'll find that 1kg nugget of gold in your plot, why bother wasting money on fixing up your home? Unfortunately most people don't strike it rich, and just keep adding to their shacks. Shame.
Right, that's the bad - now for the good: The Coastal areas of Alaska are amazing. The postcards don't lie. The Kenai Peninsular was fantastic, with Homer really standing out as the jewel.
Cordova and the surrounding area is also spectacular, and well worth the hassle of trying to get there by the ferry, but once you're in the town you are stuck if you don't have a vehicle. The Lonely PLanet guide we had offered the following advice:
Cordova.
GETTING AROUND: Good luck. |
Useful huh?
After managing to leave Cordova it was homeward bound, and we decided to take the Ferry from Haines all the way down to Prince Rupert in Canada, via Juneau the capital city. Taking the boat worked out to be about 3 times more expensive than simply driving but it was nice to get out of the van for a while and see the scenery at a more leisurely pace.
Anyhow, you'll understand better once I get the photos up, which should be pretty soon (no really). |
